Urea is a well - studied and widely used topical ingredient in dermatology. It is particularly useful in enhancing skin conditions involving scaling, dryness, itching and redness.
How does it work ?
Hydration and Barrier Restoration
Urea is an excellent agent for drawing and retaining water near the upper layers of your skin.
Keratolytic Effects
At higher concentrations of more than 10 %, urea promotes exfoliation or removal of dead skin cells by disrupting bonds and protein structures of the cells.
Anti Itching and Anti Inflammatory Effects
By normalising the skin through moisture support and barrier restoration, it indirectly reduces itching and inflammation, once your skin isn't irritated anymore, the redness subsides.
Where does it comes from ?
Urea is produced naturally in our bodies, especially near our skin cells which acting as a moisturising factor among other things. Urea used in cosmetic formulations such as shampoos are derived using synthetic process and is identical to the one produced naturally in our body.
what is the right formulation for it ?
At low concentrations of 5 - 10 % urea acts as a hydrating agent, at medium concentrations of 15 - 40 %, it also becomes a keratolytic and in very high concentrations above 40 %, it excels at very thick plaque although mild irritation occurs at high concentrations.
Does it have any side effects ?
Urea has a very favorable safety profile and is very safe with no adverse effects reported at low concentrations of 5 - 10 % which is perfect for daily use and maintenance. Some mild irritation such as burning, itching etc do start to occur above 20 % formulations.